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An All-Around Climber’s Manifesto

Climbing is a huge part of my life, and I love rock climbing.

All of types of rock climbing.

(*with a rope)

One thing I have noticed while being immersed in the climbing world, is that pro climbers, and especially the pro climbers that get the lionshare of the publicity, tend to be highly specialized. They are the very top echelon of their specific sub-type of climbing. And this goes beyond just sport vs trad - the people who make the big headlines are often specialized down to even the specific type of rock, specific type of hold and movement, and specific angle.

For example, the climbing community might revel at somebody sending a 5.15, but often the person doing the sending is just really good at steep overhanging mono dynos, and if you were to put them on a 5.10+ flared fist crack, much less an A2 bigwall (which are both pretty moderate in grand scheme of things), they would struggle.

Maybe you can see where I'm heading with this - that I'm going to make an argument in favor of all-around climbers. And you're right (in a sense) - I do believe that all-around accomplishments should be celebrated.

That said, I don't want anyone to think that I'm putting down climbers that have the type of single-minded focus needed to reach the peak of any one sub-discipline within climbing. I have mad respect for the Chris Sharma's and Dave Graham's of the world, but I do not aspire to be like them - I like all sorts of climbing too much to focus so deeply on just one type.  And fundamentally, I think there are more climbers out there like me (who aspire to climb lots of different styles and excel at many disciplines within climbing), than there are who are hyper-specialized.

I actually have even more respect for someone like Fly'n Brian McCray (RIP). Don't know who that is? Or maybe just don't know what his accomplishments were? Well, how about this list:

5.14 Sport
5.13 Trad
A5 Aid
Solo Bigwall Aiding
Bigwall Speed Records
v10 Bouldering
Trad and Sport single pitch route development/FAs
Trad and Sport multipitch route development/FAs
Ground up Bigwall FAs

And probably many additional impressive rock climbing feats that I don't know about, not to mention alpine accomplishments (to me alpine climbing is really a separate discipline from rock climbing).

Personally, a guy like Brian McCray inspires me more than all the Sharmas and Grahams out there, but McCray was, and remains, under-the-radar. I wish I could have met him before he passed away.


With Brian McCray as inspiration, I'd like to define a "Rock Climbing Decathlon". To me this makes a useful way to measure not just breadth of climbing experience, but excellence across all the major sub-disciplines of climbing. Of course this is only my proposal, and you are free to take issue with some of my choices, but mostly this is a definition that I am creating for myself, as a set of goals to accomplish during my climbing lifetime.

But first, a couple notes:

  • I'm only going for rock climbing - not anything that involves frozen stuff. Alpine and ice climbing are badass, but I see them as different genres than rock climbing.
  • With the exception of bouldering, I'm only going for rock climbing that involves ropes. Free soloing and daisy soloing are impressive, but not my cup of tea.
  • Rock climbing to me consists of 3 different sub-groups - Free climbing, Aid climbing, and Route Development/FAs. I have accomplishments laid out in each of those areas.

Without further ado, I present the Fly'n Brian McCray Climbing Decathlon:

(Parenthesis enumerate how I propose measuring each of the levels - all of these refer to outdoor grades only):

Free Climbing:
Sport (measured by: YDS)
Trad (measured by: YDS)
Offwidth* (measured by: YDS)
Bouldering (measured by: Hueco)

Aid Climbing:
Wall** Climbing (measured by: Aid Ratings)
Speed Wall Climbing (measured by: NIAD time)
Solo Wall Climbing (measured by: # of pitches)

Route Development:
Single Pitch FAs (measured by: # of individual routes developed/FAed)
Multipitch Free FAs (measured by: # of pitches)
Ground-up Wall FAs (measured by: # of pitches)

Additional cool accomplishments outside the McCray Decathlon:
Climb in many different countries
Route maintenance (rebolting/anchor replacement)

Comments:

* Many people may argue that offwidth climbing is a subset of trad climbing. It sorta is, but once you get into the (odd, obscure) world of harder offwidth, you find sport-bolted offwidths too. Hard offwidth is really its own thing. A 5.12 fingercrack at the Creek is more similar to a Smith Rock two-finger-pocket-and-crimp sport route than either of those is to a 5.12 invert at Vedauwoo. Hence why I think offwidth should be its own discipline, although I fully recognize how obscure it is to the average climber. I also considered whether slab climbing should have its own criteria, but then I decided that I wasn't sure it really was a thing. Do 5.12 or 5.13 slab routes get those grades because of the slab moves? Or because of hard crimpy climbing past a bulge in the middle, or something like that. I guess I'm just not sure that 5.13 slab is really a thing and that anything that proposes to be 5.13 slab might just be 5.13 runout sport or trad. I'm open to being proven wrong on this however.

** The term "wall" or "bigwall" is pretty amorphous. I think a wall is any grade III or longer multipitch climb that has mandatory (or semi-mandatory - ie to avoid 5.12 or harder free climbing, or to avoid R/X danger) aid climbing mixed in. I also considered putting in bigwall free climbing as a discipline, but then I thought about it and bigwall free climbing is really just long multipitch free climbing, so I don't think it's really its own thing.  Similarly, I think that "alpine climbs" without any ice/snow on them are really just multipitch free climbs that have longer approaches and chossier rock.


So, if that's the list of 10 sub-disciplines within rock climbing, then what are the levels at which each should be accomplished to be a well-rounded climbing decathlete? Again, only my proposals, but I'll lay out 3 thresholds: 5.11 equivalent, 5.12 equivalent, and 5.13 equivalent.

5.11 equivalent climbing decathlete:

  • Sport: 5.11a
  • Trad: 5.11a
  • Offwidth: 5.11a
  • Bouldering: V4
  • Wall Climbing: C2+
  • Speed Wall Climbing: NIAD in sub 24hrs
  • Solo Wall Climbing: Any solo wall
  • Single Pitch FAs: 5 quality routes
  • Multipitch Free FAs: a route at least 3 pitches long
  • Ground-up wall FAs: a wall FA at least 5 pitches long

Bonus: Climb in at least 5 different countries, and re-bolt at least 5 different routes

5.12 equivalent climbing decathlete:

  • Sport: 5.12a
  • Trad: 5.12a
  • Offwidth: 5.12a
  • Bouldering: V6
  • Wall Climbing: A3
  • Speed Wall Climbing: NIAD in sub 18hrs
  • Solo Wall Climbing: Any solo wall longer than 12 pitches
  • Single Pitch FAs: 9 quality routes
  • Multipitch Free FAs: a route at least 6 pitches long
  • Ground-up wall FAs: a wall FA at least 9 pitches long

Bonus: Climb in at least 9 different countries, and re-bolt at least 9 different routes

5.13 equivalent climbing decathlete:

  • Sport: 5.13a
  • Trad: 5.13a
  • Offwidth: 5.13a
  • Bouldering: V8
  • Wall Climbing: A4
  • Speed Wall Climbing: NIAD in sub 13hrs
  • Solo Wall Climbing: Any solo El Cap route, or another wall 16 pitches or longer
  • Single Pitch FAs: 13 quality routes
  • Multipitch Free FAs: a route at least 9 pitches long
  • Ground-up wall FAs: a wall FA at least 13 pitches long

Bonus: Climb in at least 13 different countries, and re-bolt at least 13 different routes


So personally, I'm not too far off from accomplishing the 5.12 level McCray Decathlon, but what I really want is that 5.13 level.

I would love to compile a list of climbers who have reached the 5.13 McCray Decathlon level, but I'm not sure there's really a good way to do this. The strongest climbing decathlete currently alive that I can think of is Pete Takeda, who is a true all-arounder in the McCray mold.  Climbers that come to my mind that might be close include Cedar Wright and Dave Allfrey, although hard offwidth and bigwall FAs might throw a couple monkey-wrenches in things.

Latest Photos

Matt Trager took this photo looking back down at me from the summit of Ancient Art in the Fisher Towers.
When we selfie, we selfie hard… Laura taking the selfie with Ashley starting up on Squat while I belay hard. Wooo, Vooooooooo!
Danny going for the send on Beer Crack in the Voo.
Danny getting intimate with Lucille in the Voo. He put in a solid effort and came one move away from onsighting, and then almost puked himself.
Jake attempting Trench Warfare in Little Cottonwood Canyon outside SLC a couple months ago.
Irene Yee photo of me about to launch into the crux leaning OW roof of Forever War, a multi-hard route that I got spanked on here in Vedauwoo a couple days ago.
Danny attempting to pull the crux lip at the end of the roof on Lucille the other day. Chicken wings and chicken wings…
Irene Yee photo of me trying hard on Forever War. That thing is pretty brutal. Probably tied with Witness the Wideness for the hardest invert OW I’ve tried…
Ashley admiring Lucille, the massive roof crack right above her, before we tried it.
Irene Yee photo of me on The Greatest and Best Pitch in The World in Zion. Sweet, sweet 10- hero climbing up an amazing fin of rock.
Ashley on Squat. Look at the cam hanging down to get an idea what direction is actually down.
Matt Trager photo of me standing on the summit of Ancient Art in the Fisher Towers. The coolest summit I’ve been on.
Cool Irene Yee photo of me taping up to try Lucille.
Jenny working the moves on Nats 3-star Roof.
Jenny snapped this photo of me on Nats 3-Star Roof. Fun roof crack!
Golf pants and climbing ropes.
Ashley attempting the invert lip of Squat last week here in Vedauwoo.
Throwing it back to a fun day climbing in Escalante Canyon with @chase_the_horizon. If only that place weren’t so ugly…
Throwing it back to a sweet @ladylockoff photo of me looking like a spider on The Fox in Redrocks. I feel like my limbs aren’t actually that weirdly long…
That moment when you’ve got the gear clipped, and all that’s left is to pull into the crux. @ladylockoff photo of me about to launch into the crux of Lucille in Vedauwoo.
@cheyeah working the mediocre flared cup hand jam on Escape Tunnel in Vedauwoo yesterday.
Vedauwoo afternoons…
@tyler.dziedzina showing what it looks like when an offwidth climber tries to crimp…
#beeroclock Sometimes you just gotta grab a drink while hanging upside down from your feet in an invert squeeze boulder problem. @ashleyreva photo of me on The Warden.
@jenny.lemonpie photo of me on Nats 3-Star Roof in Vedauwoo. Leaving the Voo and heading north today. Thanks for the good times Voo!
@julia_payton came out to try her hand on some cracks in the Voo. Here she is following me up Middle Parallel Space, a fun little offwidth to a handcrack/chimney. Classic!
SMASHLEY (aka @ashleyreva) working the double fist stack to pull into the invert on Squat in Vedauwoo.
Throwing it back to @mdt615 canyoneering in North Wash. Fun times!
And throwing it back to climbing in Zion with @cypressthetank!
I stopped through Lander and got to visit/climb with @kymeier and @kentuckbwall! Here’s Becca going for the send on a fun route out in Wild Iris.
Road trip is coming to an end (for now),so here’s throwing it way back to the first stop on my roadtrip – Jtree in December.
Walking back from climbing at the end of the day in Vedauwoo a couple weeks ago, I decided to play around on the mushroom boulder, and @ladylockoff got the photo (she always does).
I really like this photo of @cheyeah sending the Warden in the Voo while @ashleyreva and @tyler.dziedzina spot. The Dungeon is a pretty cool spot to boulder…
Throwing it back to Vedauwoo climbing and chilling with @ladylockoff. Good times!
An sometimes you end up looking like one of those troll dolls from the early 90s… @ashleyreva hanging from her feet while working on The Warden in Vedauwoo a couple weeks ago.
Sometimes you gotta get up close and personal with the rock… @ladylockoff photo of me on Gabriel in Zion a while back.
Throwing it back to climbing in Castle Valley with @mdt615 a couple months ago. Trager knows how to camouflage.
Another throwback photo to the night bouldering at the Crackhouse outside Moab with @jenny.lemonpie. When life gives you lemons, make lemonpie! I’m not sure what the lemons are in this analogy, since life is pretty darn great, but… PIE. ????????????????????????????????????????
Sandstone.
Can’t always be climbing. Sometimes you gotta listen to @cypressthetank and take a random spontaneous last minute trip up to Puget Sound to canoe into an uninhabited island in the San Juan’s to camp. A few minutes after this photo, a killer whale breached about 100ft in front of us.
Island mornings chilling in the San Juan’s.
@cypressthetank stoked about padding on the ocean.
@tyler.dziedzina showing proper sending form on the Warden, a hard Vedauwoo offwidth boulder.
The view from the top of a desert tower is pretty darn sweet. If you look really really closely you can actually see about 3 or 4 backpacks sitting down by the big house sized boulder on the sun/shade line.
@ladylockoff found a sweet new handcrack boulder problem in Vedauwoo while we were there. FAed the shit out of it. Super highball, as you can see…
Today is a day of photos that make me laugh. Here @theyshoothorsesdontthey demonstrates what happens when you wait for all your spotters turn their backs and THEN you go for the topout in the Crackhouse. Killing it. Killing it…
Smith Rock sunsets! Pulling this one out of the archives…
Next level free soloing… I posted this photo of @ladylockoff on a perfect 3-foot splitter handcrack a couple days ago. Irene took it and really upped the level on it quite a bit. Makes the look on her face much more distressed…
Look! I made an art! Smashley (@ashleyreva) on Squat in Vedauwoo, turned into a mosaic. Smashley in broken tile form = irony?
Lookey. Another art. This time painting over @ladylockoff’s photo of me playing around on the Mushroom boulder at Vedauwoo. Artsy fartsy!
Throwing it back to bouldering with @julia_payton in Vedauwoo, land of mosquitos and many bags of sand.
Got down to the lower gorge at Smith a couple days ago with @wfoxbluff and Karen. Good to be back down there!
Friends and lakes and canoes and meowntains and sunsets and meteors and very excellent times. Paddling around on Sparks Lake with @choose.joy, @themountainsgrace, and @seasonedtoes a couple nights ago for the perseids was great.
Another art I made. Painting over a @jenny.lemonpie photo of me on Nats 3-Star Roof in Vedauwoo.
SMASHLEY (@ashleyreva) working the double fists on Beer Crack in Vedauwoo back in June. Hope everyone in Vedauwoo right now is having multi-fun, as they say in Italian.
Throwing it back to @chase_the_horizon flashing some #epicpointing while following the “coolest 5.8 pitch in the desert” on Long Dong Wall in Colorado National Monument. You can see the rope grooves which illustrate how soft the sandstone is there. Definitely the softest I’ve ever climbed on without a doubt.
#tbt Throwing it way back to climbing the Touchstone Wall in Zion in the sun in February. I stopped mid-pitch to snap this photo of @camabam belaying really hard, because: aid climbing. If you’re gonna belay, make sure you belay harrrd!
@ladylockoff took this killer photo of me on an apocalyptic version of The Biggest Tits in Country Music in Vedauwoo. High pressure send!
9″ valley giant = confidence inspiring. @ladylockoff photo of me placing a VG on Gabriel in Zion.
My friend @olgababolga came to visit Bend, so yesterday we went out to Ye Olde Choss Pile and swung leads up the classic moderate multipitch Wherever I May Roam. Here Olga gives her best send the gnar face as she tops out the final move of the 5th pitch. Gotta follow rules #1 and #3!
Climbing with @olgababolga earlier this week out at Smith. Multi-fun!
Throwing it back to @kentuckbwall climbing at Wild Iris while the thunderclouds build. Great people, fun climbing, and a beautiful crag.
Trusty climbing kit: Metolius gear, TC Bros, and golf pants! ?️?
@mdt615 showing off the anchor as we prepped to rap off the Morning Glory Arch outside Moab back in May. It’s the fifth largest sandstone arch in the world, and you have to simul-counterweight rapple it. #meatanchor #sponsoredrappler
@cheyeah trying hard on Escape Tunnel in the Voo a couple months ago.
@olgababolga photo of me following her up the third pitch of Wherever I May Roam a couple weeks ago when she came to visit. Fun times!
The first hints of fall weather have me remembering cold nights with good friends last winter. This was the new years bonfire in Jtree this past winter.
SMASHLEY (aka @ashleyreva) goes wide pony on Squat in Vedauwoo while her chalkbag wonders what the hell it’s gotten itself into back in June.
I’m very excited about this new project I discovered. @brokenrobox and I went out and cleaned this 100′ long roof crack last weekend, and yesterday I got out to try it for the first time, then went out again today with @forrest.kaye. It’s haard, but really good. Kinda like the Crackhouse outside Moab, but more thin hands and tricky jams, and a couple hard boulder problems guarding the start and finish and middle. Psyched to work this thing and hopefully do the FA at some point!
Since I just started working this new crazy roof crack project, it has me remembering good times working the Crackhouse this past spring. Here’s a photo of @jenny.lemonpie working the handjams at the Crackhouse.
Throwing it back to that one time in Vedauwoo when we went to go work beer crack and we all forgot our crash pads, but fortunately Smashley (@ashleyreva) had her whole stuffed animal collection with her. Though I do have to say, that once she fell, she really didn’t want to move out of the way to let someone else try – she just wanted to lie there and snuggle her stuffed animals…
Got out to the gorge yesterday with Casey and @forrest.kaye. Fun times. Here’s Casey with the big reeaach on Cry Of The Gerbil.
Throwing it back to questionable life choices with @crackfanatic on Trench Warfare in Little Cottonwood Canyon
Fun @ladylockoff photo of me on Gabriel in Zion last spring. A little hard to see what’s going on, but I’m hanging from my feet, placing a valley giant next to my ankle. Good times!
Here’s a photo of the Zion park shuttle bus that I took while belaying @cypressthetank on Spaceshot this past spring. Zion – I miss your beautiful sandstone walls.
Throwing it back to @cheyeah trying very hard on Lucille in Vedauwoo. It’s funny because Danny’s tryhard face just looks like he’s laughing, but he actually was trying so hard that he almost puked himself shortly after I took this photo…
Fatty rap rings on the summit of Castleton Tower looking over Castle Valley. @mdt615 and I simul-rapped off these rings (because we’re sponsored rapplers), and our Spanish friends Arturo and Pau and a German couple had their minds blown watching us. They stood there taking video of us because they had never seen anyone simul-rap before. Good times in the desert.
Today, throwing it back to Vedauwoo with three photos of the Warden, a classic invert OW problem. Here’s @tyler.dziedzina enjoying heel-toes and invert chicken wings at the start of the Warden.
Dab! @crackfanatic slides out of The Warden onto his head…
Awesome OW crusher crew! @ashleyreva @crackfanatic @nhclimb and @tyler.dziedzina hang out in the Dungeon in front of the Warden watching @cheyeah (out of the photo) working hard on Escape Tunnel.
Here’s another photo of Casey on Cry Of The Gerbil a couple weeks ago. She’s very serious when she climbs…
Throwing it back to a sweet @ladylockoff photo of me on The Fox in Redrocks last winter.
Throwing it back to climbing Ancient Art in the Fisher Towers outside Moab with @mdt615 in the spring.
Here’s a photo of Smashley (@ashleyreva) nearing the lip of Squat in Vedauwoo. Double fist stacks for the win!
Throwing it back to July, with a beautiful view out the door of my rig.
Throwing it back to a @ladylockoff photo of me trying Forever War in Vedauwoo with @ashleyreva and @cheyeah. My feet don’t fit! @ashleyreva, @cheyeah, and @ladylockoff just got back from putting up cool OW FAs in Utah. Can’t wait to see photos of what they did!
Throwing it back to a sweet @ladylockoff photo of me on The Greatest and Best Pitch in The World. Been thinking of Zion and all my desert peeps recently. Missing the red desert, but it will have to wait until spring!
Throwing it back to a photo of me working on Gabriel in Zion last spring. Such an epic route! Can’t wait to go back and finish it up this coming spring. This is probably my all time favorite photo of me. @ladylockoff took it – go check her out, she’s been absolutely killing it lately.
Casey, keeping her cool on Cry Of The Gerbil down in the Lower Gorge at Smith Rock earlier this fall.
This photo is from @jonathankingston of me with double shadows protecting my new route. So over the past couple of months, I’ve mostly been posting old photos. The reason for this is that I’ve been working almost exclusively on this new route with @brokenrobox that’s underground in a cave and I haven’t been able to get any good photos of it. A couple days ago my buddy @jonathankingston came out. He’s an awesome NatGeo professional photographer, so he has the skills and gear to get good photos. I’m going to be posting a bunch of his photos, but go follow his account for more awesome photography. The route is a ~100 foot long roof crack inside a lava tube, and it’s really cool and completely unique. I’m starting to get close to putting together the FA. Working title on it is “In The Belly Of The Beast”. Tentatively proposing a grade of somewhere in the 5.13 range. More photos of it to come!
I’ve had to develop new taping tactics to work In The Belly Of The Beast. Those who have climbed at places like Trout Creek know how rough basalt can be, and this project is 100ft of dead horizontal, so the amount of weight on your hands is that much greater. Plus there’s a dyno hand jam, and a jam we’ve nicknamed the ‘snakebite’ jam. Also, I’m a pansy and have wimpy skin… These are a beefed up version of Scarpelli-style tape gloves with more finger/knuckle protection. My left hand has the burlier tape job because of the snakebite jam. Photo by the extremely talented @jonathankingston.
Another awesome photo from @jonathankingston of me working on my current project – In The Belly Of The Beast – that I’ve been working with @brokenrobox. This is the middle of the crux section. Rattly fingers on a dead horizontal roof is hard!
So excited that my buddy @brokenrobox sent his big project: Horse Power (V11). This is his first V11, and it’s been amazing to watch him put it together over the last few months. Photo from the amazing @jonathankingston. As a side note, the grafitti on the rocks is very disappointing to me. I was personally out climbing here a couple months ago and came across some guys (not climbers) that had a backpack that made a curious metallic noise when they set it down. It was pretty clearly the noise of cans of spray paint. When I came across them, they suspiciously grabbed their stuff and scurried away. We climbers do a lot to prevent vandalism of area like this, both because of our presence deterring vandals, and because of the fact that we pick up trash and generally keep the place clean and tidy and take care of it. Eric and I combined have carried garbage bags and garbage bags worth of trash and broken glass out of this area. The photos of my roof crack project at this secret cave somewhere in the Pacific Northwest have caused a small stir with some people, since caves on BLM/Forrest Service lands are closed to all climbing. This cave is not on BLM/Forrest Service land. The avid cavers in this area (ie. the local Grotto), and the public land managers would do well to realize that climbers do the most of any user group to protect and care for the caves. We are the front line defenses keeping the caves and boulders protected from vandals and careless users who leave trash, etc. The outright ban on climbing in caves on BLM/Forrest Service lands to me is illogical and shortsighted. Not having climbers out there to protect and take care of the caves will only lead to more vandalism and trashing by people who do not value the caves like we do.
Bend, it’s been real! It’s been a good few months of being settled, hanging out with some of the best people, getting productive work done, and working on sending my cave project (didn’t finish it off, but I did do the crux sequence last night and now I know it’s only a matter of putting in enough sessions when I get back to get it done). Now, however I’m super excited to be heading out to Thailand for a few months. Looking forward to climbing on the beach and in the jungle, eating amazing Thai food, experiencing some Thai culture, and meeting lots of awesome people. First stop: Tonsai. I’ll be pulling in on the 10th. I’ll be there at least a few weeks, maybe a month. If you’re in/heading to Tonsai and want to hang/climb, hit me up!
Rainy day in Portland today. Just waiting for my flight to Thailand tomorrow, so here’s a photo of me rope soloing on the Muir Wall on El Cap from a few years back. This photo is from the Silverfish Corner, which is something like pitch 14 or 15. Aid soloing is fun, scary, exhausting, stressful, satisfying, engaging, and more than a bit masochistic. If intensity of experience is what you’re looking for, aid soloing is waaaaay up there.
I’m in the airport on my way to Thailand for the next 2.5 months. Super excited. Buuuuuut… I am going to miss roadtripping around the desert southwest with good people. Last winter I met so many amazing friends! This photo is of the very best sunset of last winter, from the Hidden Valley campground in Jtree last December. Remembering all the dirtbag friends who were there watching it with me. ?????️??
Oh hey Thailand. I saw this in the front yard a couple places down from where I’m staying in Phuket.
Just got into Tonsai. This place is hot ??️??️. I mean that figuratively and literally… Also hot is the sweet @metoliusclimbing cragstation backpack I’m using as my travel backpack (in the photo). Burly as hell, full length zipper down the back so you can pack it like a duffel, and shoulder straps and waist belt that tuck away so there’s less stuff to get caught up in conveyor belts, etc. Plus I’ve had two people now recognize me as a climber because I’m traveling with a Metolius pack. Thanks for making great stuff Metolius!
Pulled into Tonsai this morning. Climbed, met awesome people, sweated (a lot) ate some delicious food, hung out at a bar for the evening, and now it’s time to crash and do it all again tomorrow!
Just met DaLing. Here she is pulling through a roof on a fun climb we did at the Nest. Good times!
@mariafaith26 pulling down hard, trying to get to that next hold on a climb up in the Nest here in Tonsai.
@tgrundyman going for the clip on a rope sling on a route at the Nest in Tonsai.
Randy checking out the beta today on Tidal Wave, trying to decide if he wants to start projecting it.
You win some, and you lose some… Lena hangs after whipping on the last bolt on Tonsai Playboy.
@tgrundyman making moves on a route up in the Nest.
Longtail boats stranded by the low tide on Tonsai Beach while climbing at the Fire Wall.
Lauren climbing the aptly named “Groove Tube” on the Fire Wall in Tonsai. A lot of the climbing here is on tufas, but every now and then you climb the opposite of a tufa…
@wyattxderp going for the next hold on Groove Tube above Tonsai Beach.
@mariafaith26 with the tryhard in the heat of Thailand.
Da-ling mid-whip on Tidal Wave on Tonsai Beach.
@theworstaznever heading for the top on Groove Tube in Tonsai.
Unknown climber takes a bat hang rest above Tonsai Beach as some impressed tourons look on.
I left Tonsai yesterday and headed to Koh Tao for a dive course. This was the second to last sunset I saw on Tonsai. Tonsai was pretty sweet, but I don’t want to be dishonest with my photos and oversell it. The climbing was good, but very polished, and I overheated within the first 20 feet of every route I got on. I’ve never been so sweaty, and I found it was pointless to even consider trying anything hard. Other people seemed to fair a bit better in the heat than I. Tonsai is beautiful, but it has serious problems with sanitation, garbage, and mosquitoes. Raw sewage goes straight out into the water, so swimming on the beach is highly not recommended. Tonsai is well worth a visit, but just don’t expect it to be perfect. You have to take a fair helping of bad with all the good.
Sometimes you just gotta turn around and climb facing out to enjoy the view of the beach… (there was an attractive girl in a bikini Lucas wanted to keep his eye on as he led Groove Tube). Also, if anyone needs a lesson in back muscle anatomy, Lucas is available…
Transit day today from Koh Tao to Chiang Mai. Scuba in Koh Tao was awesome (but I don’t have any photos). So here’s a photo from Tonsai of Da-ling and Randy on a route in the Nest.
Crazy vines climbing in the jungle in Thailand.
“This thing is on, right?” @theworstaznever tries the “unapproved beta” on Groove Tube in Tonsai. PNW rules say vegetables are on as long as you can still reach the bolts, and I’m from the PNW, so I think it’s valid. #isthissquamish #ormaybeindex
Merry Christmas from Chiang Mai, Thailand!
Got out climbing at Crazy Horse yesterday, but we climbed inside caves all day, so this is the only photo I got. @wyattxderp standing in a ray of sunlight at the entrance to the Anxiety State cave. I spent this whole fall climbing in a basalt cave back in the US, but these limestone caves are quite a bit bigger. The roof was 80m above the ground – pretty amazing place to climb!
Throwing it back to @mollynwonderland climbing Groove Tube in Tonsai a couple of weeks ago. Always wonderful to meet other fun travelers who are up for spontaneity and adventure!
Sunset 1 year ago in Jtree
Another throwback to climbing in the jungle above Tonsai Beach. @tgrundyman sending.
All my friends in Oregon have just been posting epic insane snow photos, so here’s a photo of Casey on Cry Of The Gerbil on a beautiful late summer afternoon. Sending some of this Thailand warmth and sunshine to everyone back in the states!
Throwing it back to @olgababolga following the last pitch of Wherever I May Roam at Smith Rock last summer. Mellow multipitch memories.
I’m still in Thailand for a few more weeks, but I’ve been thinking about the desert a lot. Here’s the first of three @ladylockoff photos of me on The Greatest and Best Pitch in The World in Zion. Such a unique feature and awesome route! Looking forward to getting another lap in on it in March!
Post 2/3: The things you do to clip! The day @ladylockoff, @cypressthetank and I went out to get photos on The Greatest and Best Pitch in The World, it happened to be 40-50mph winds. Being out on the super exposed arete only compounded the problem. With the wind gusting so hard, and needing to use long slings on every bolt, clipping became quite a challenge. Here @ladylockoff captured me using my teeth, thumb, and hand to make the clip. The wind certainly made leading quite a bit more exciting!
Here’s a photo of me on The Greatest And Best Pitch In The World in Zion, Utah, which is a killer 48m long pitch. Speaking of long pitches – I’ve always felt that I would improve at climbing if I had a little more cardiovascular endurance, but I’ve always avoided running. This year is the year though. My #CleanStartPledge is to run at least 5 miles and do at least 1 session of wind sprints per week for all of 2017. What’s a #CleanStartPledge? @PowerBar is supporting your Clean Start Pledge, which is about setting a health or fitness goal to motivate you in 2017. Check it out at www.PowerBarCleanStart.com Photo by @ladylockoff #climbing #rockclimbing #zion #zionnationalpark #partner
Throwing it back to @crackfanatic putting in an attempt on Trench Warfare outside SLC last spring. Pretty epic route! @cheyeah snapped the photo on my camera.
Throwing it back to an unknown climber and some gawking tourists on Tonsai Beach, Thailand from December.
I’m in transit back home today, but I spent the last 5 days in Siem Reap, Cambodia checking out these amazing Khmer temples. Here’s a photo of Ta Prohm,where some scenes from the Tomb Raider movie were filmed.
Epic trees in Ta Prohm, Cambodia! I really love California Valley Oaks, but these might be the coolest trees I’ve ever seen…
Third photo from Ta Prohm, outside Siem Reap in Cambodia. Buddahs, even one’s without heads, are always cared for. Such a cool place to explore!
I’m back from spending the winter in Thailand, getting ready for the next phase of my 2017 travels to the desert southwest. For the 2+ months I was in SE Asia I lived out of my @metoliusclimbing Crag Station backpack. Just big enough for my rope, 14 draws, 4 slings, extra lockers, jug, GriGri, megajul, harness, shoes, chalk bag, shirts, shorts, pants, hoodie, rain jacket, boxers, socks, towel, camera, and sandals. Oh and toothbrush. But when I ditched most of the extra stuff and went out for a day of climbing (like in this photo in Tonsai) the pack compressed down and carried nicely. And the shoulder straps and waistbelt stash away when you need to check the bag on the plane, and the burly fabric means no worries about it holding up to the rigors of travel.
I’m cooped up working on building out my new van, but I’m getting so excited about heading back to the desert in a couple weeks! Redrocks/Zion here I come! Here’s a @ladylockoff photo from last spring. ?
More desert psych! Throwing it back to last spring again with @chase_the_horizon following me up the “coolest 5.8 pitch in the desert” on Long Dong Wall in Colorado National Monument. Good times! Sandstone, I’m coming for ya…
Awww yea, van construction. Bed platform finished, everything is moving along! Got a couple weeks to build it out and get down to Vegas!
Jeff (@seasonedtoes) from Solardealz.com helping me install my solar system on the MegaVan today. Getting closer to hitting the road! Check out Solardealz for awesome solar kits for your rig. Super high quality, easy to install, and super good prices on kits. And you can email/call Jeff directly to get help sizing a system or for install questions etc. Thanks a boatload Jeff!
Repost from @seasonedtoes – that moment when you commit to drilling a hole in the roof of your van… Solar panels fully installed and functional today!
I’m out here building my van out in the snow. Haven’t felt my feet in about 4 hours… So here’s throwing it back to hotter, sweatier times climbing Groove Tube in Tonsai back in December with @theworstaznever.
Throwing it back to last summer in Vedauwoo climbing with @julia_payton. Fun times and I’m psyched to get back out on the road!
“Hey guys, this is normal, right?!?” asks @crackfanatic to @cheyeah last year, crack bouldering on The Warden in Vedauwoo.
My stop in Bend is nearly over. It’s been a mixed bag of mostly mediocre weather, but honestly that hasn’t really mattered since I’ve been so focused on catching up with friends and mostly on getting my new MegaVan built out and ready for the desert. Here’s a throwback photo from Smith of Casey on Cry Of The Gerbil in the Lower Gorge last September. Good times!
FOCUS. Throwback to December climbing with @mattiesumps in Tonsai.
Woooooo climbing yesterday! In redrocks! In 70 degree weather! With @seelyseeclimb and @ladylockoff (?) And we’re heading out again today. It’s good to be back in the desert! So stoked for the next three months of roadtripping through the Southwest and California. So many friends I can’t wait to see and climb with again!
Yesterday was Mellow Moderate Multipitch Monday #MMMM with @humanboltgun and Ian. Started hiking at 2:30pm for a quick run up Frogland with these two! 5.fun all the way.
@ladylockoff photo of me on Chrysler Crack in Redrocks. Gettin wiiiiiiiiiide. Thanks @seelyseeclimb for the “belay”!
Yesterday my buddy Matt Steeve and I ran up Cloud Tower – awesome route! We were behind these wonderful ladies the whole way, stealing their beta. This is a photo I took while on lead in the squeeze chimney on the sixth pitch of Lisa staring out on lead on the final 11c pitch. Lisa and Jean crushed it!
Chilling with Steele, @aubrahhhh, and Josh at the pitch 3 ledge waiting for multiple parties to sort their shit out. We’ve been here for a bit…
Sometimes you’re climbing an offwidth in Redrocks, and you just need a @PowerBar half way up. Thanks @ladylockoff for hanging on a fixed line next to me to snap the photo and for tossing me a snack to refuel. Update on my #CleanStartPledge – life has been super hectic and I haven’t made my goal every single week, but I’m excited to get settled into more of a routine now and make sure I get those miles and sprints in. I’ve never been a runner, but I do feel that I’m getting a bit better at it, and I think it will pay off in my climbing with better endurance. #partner
Yesterday got out with @ladylockoff for a quick mellow multipitch in the Calico Hills at Redrocks. Good times! Tomorrow I’m starting a takeover of the @wileyx account and running a giveaway. Keep your eyes out for that starting tomorrow!
I’m excited to announce that I’m now officially a WileyX Ambassador. I’m also doing a takeover of the @wileyx account this weekend, and we’re running a *GIVEAWAY* of three free pairs of WileyX sunglasses with @ladylockoff! ° To enter to win the free pair of sunglasses of your choice (non-prescription) do the following: 1) Make sure you are following @wileyx, @ladylockoff, and my account. 2) Tag three friends in the comments on any post that I make, @wileyx makes, or @ladylockoff makes between now and Sunday 10pm PST. 3) Three pairs of sunglasses will be given away randomly – one to a commenter on the @wileyx account, one on @ladylockoff, and one on my account. You can enter up to three times by commenting on each account. ° Photo by @ladylockoff of me with the ridiculous beta on Cold September Corner in Redrocks.
*GIVEAWAY* We’re giving away three pairs of @wileyx Sunglasses! To enter to win a pair of WileyX sunglasses of your choice (non-prescription) do the following: 1) Make sure you’re following @wileyx, @matt_likes_climbing, and @ladylockoff 2) Tag three friends in the comments on any post that @wileyx makes, @matt_likes_climbing makes, or @ladylockoff makes between now and Sunday 10pm PST. 3) Three pairs of sunglasses will be given away randomly – one to a commenter on the @wileyx account, one on @ladylockoff, and one on my account. You can enter up to three times by commenting on each account. Sweet @ladylockoff photo of me doing a little chicken-wing shuffle on Chrysler Crack in Redrocks. Fun climbing!
*GIVEAWAY* To enter to win a pair of WileyX sunglasses of your choice (non-prescription) do the following: 1) Make sure you’re following @wileyx, @matt_likes_climbing, and @ladylockoff 2) Tag three friends in the comments on any post that @wileyx makes, @matt_likes_climbing makes, or @ladylockoff makes between now and Sunday 10pm Put (today!). 3) Three pairs of sunglasses will be given away randomly – one to a commenter on the @wileyx account, one on @ladylockoff, and one on @matt_likes_climbing. You can enter up to three times by commenting on each account. @ladylockoff photo of me getting ready to lead Chrysler Crack in Redrocks. Valley Giant for the win!
Check out my new climbing rig. Bought the van and tore out the interior in the fall. Then went to Thailand for 2 months, and when I got back in February I spent 2.5 weeks building it out (12-14 hr days to get it done, with incredible help from friends like @seasonedtoes). Still some more modifications to make, but its doing pretty well. Swipe for more photos and to see the inside. Photos taken at the Red Rock Rendezvous this past weekend.
@ladylockoff has been helping me stay on track with my #CleanStartPledge – this time handing me a @PowerBar mid-lead while she shoots from a fixed line in Red Rocks. #partner
Rest day in Redrocks. Gusts up to 80mph yesterday and to 40mph today means time to get some work done. Work hard when it’s bad to play hard when it’s good! Photo from @camabam waiting out some rain.
Cool @ladylockoff photo of me on Risk Brothers Roof, rocking the #teamtigermafia hoodie. Sometimes you just gotta get fierce!
This is my favorite photo of me ever taken. Just an incredible moment – almost unbelievable!
Yesterday had to pull some shenanigans rapping off Voyager with @humanboltgun. Totally safe (don’t try this at home). Good thing we’re sponsored rapplers.
Awesome @ladylockoff photo of me climbing in the Calico Hills in Redrocks. This photo won the Redrock Rendezvous 2017 photo contest! Pretty sweet! #RRR17 Yesterday was my last climbing day in Vegas for the spring. I didn’t intend to spend a whole month here, but it has just been pouring rain in Zion for weeks and weeks, and its been pretty good weather and climbing here in Redrocks with awesome friends! To everyone I climbed with/hung with/met – its been wonderful, and I hope to see you all soon at a crag near you!
This girl. @ladylockoff has been absolutely killing it on the climbing photography, and as you can tell from this photo, she’s also been killing it on the offwidth. This is clearly the correct beta to invert the harder side of plumbers crack in redrocks. I’m stoked to get out to Utah with Irene and @cheyeah and @ashleyreva next week. The Offwidth Army is getting together!
Just spent the last week out in the remote Utah desert, putting up FAs and repeating burly routes with @cheyeah, @ashleyreva, and @ladylockoff. Such good times with the Offwidth Army. Here Danny and I prep some anchor bolts and discuss the finer points of stainless and plated steel. These bolts went atop a pillar that held three FAs – two offwidths and an arcing thin hands crack.
Smashley (@ashleyreva) getting ready to smash the 2nd ascent of Big Brother, a harrd vert offwidth. Believe it or not, she ran out of cams and had to punch it to the anchor high above a tipped 6. Boldly done!
Last week I got to hang out with these three amazing people together for the first time in nearly a year! We spent a fantastic week in the remote Utah desert putting up FAs and repeating burly offwidth lines. Gotta love the Offwidth Army. To mark the occasion we all got awesome animal shirts. @cheyeah got a lightning kitten, @ashleyreva and @ladylockoff independently chose Llamacorns, and I had my trusty two faced lion shirt. And then we put up 3 FAs named after our shirts, because of course.
Last week I got to photograph @ladylockoff put up her first FA out in the Remote Utah desert. Here she is clipping a Wild 5 on her second attempt to climb what became Llamacorn. Took 3 more tries after this one for her to get to the top. Great persistence!
Here’s @ladylockoff on her FA of Llamacorn, feeling worked and not super psyched on her tipped #6…
Throwing it back to climbing in Redrocks last month with this @ladylockoff photo. I’m psyched to see some WileyX people here in Moab in a couple of days! @wileyx #wileyx
This is @ashleyreva, showing off her guns. You can see why her nickname is Smashley. With amazingly flexible legs/hips, and mega-burl arms like these, she is one of the very best offwidth climbers in the world. Her yet unrepeated route Wapiti Crack (proposed 5.13) has repulsed strong climbers vying for the First Male Ascent (FMA). Plus with a rainbow Llamacorn T-shirt like that, the intimidation factor is through the roof. Who would even think about challenging her to an offwidth battle?
Out in the remote Utah desert, @ashleyreva, @ladylockoff and I got the FAs of three routes that ended at the same chains. Here’s a photo of me on the FA of Two Faced Lion on the Amazon wall. Baggy 4s/skinny 5s through this flare bulge proved to be the crux. Well, that and the copious amounts of sand I ate/consumed through my eyes. Good times! ?: @ladylockoff
This is my “This is hard and really really ridiculously sandy” face while on the onsight FA of Two Faced Lion out in the remote Utah desert a couple weeks ago. ?:@ladylockoff
Coming up tomorrow, @tradprincess and I will be trading accounts for a day – she’s taking over my account while I take over hers. Make sure you follow her to see my posts and watch here to see some of her best photos. Here’s a photo I took of Mary when we were out climbing in Castle Valley last week. We got on Voodoo Child on Parriot Mesa and we got a good dose of the struggle barge. You can see the look in Mary’s eyes after leading a 190ft 5.11 pitch. Working out that suffer muscle!
I’m @tradprincess and I’m taking over this account! Bahahahhahaahhaah and there’s nothing you can do about it! Lol this is a rad shot captured by @johnevansphoto of a beautiful splitter in long canyon. #outdoorwomen #liveclimbrepeat #climbingisbliss #explore #sendtown #ladieswhoclimb #climbinglovers #womenthatclimb #climblikeagirl #heyflashfoxy #rockclimbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #womenonlead #goatworthy #tradisrad #crackclimbing #addicted2crack #climbinginspiration #splitters #climb_girl #peanutgallery
@tradprincess takeover: Throwing back to some invert climbing that I got to do with some rad ladies in canyonlands! Those inverts are hard and I can’t wait to finish them! Going to leave this here while I go get on some more inverts! Woo! Photo by @jenny.lemonpie #outdoorwomen #liveclimbrepeat #climbingisbliss #explore #sendtown #ladieswhoclimb #climbinglovers #womenthatclimb #climblikeagirl #heyflashfoxy #rockclimbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #womenonlead #goatworthy #tradisrad #crackclimbing #addicted2crack #climbinginspiration #splitters #climb_girl #peanutgallery #invertedoffwidth #bouldering #boulder #offwidth #offwidtharmy #offwidthfun #circustricks
It’s been a fun @tradprincess takeover! But all things must end! This is one of my favorite routes in moab Ms Kitty Likes It That Way. Go eat ice cream and dream of sending sends! :) Photo by @dean.coolio #outdoorwomen #liveclimbrepeat #climbingisbliss #explore #sendtown #ladieswhoclimb #climbinglovers #womenthatclimb #climblikeagirl #heyflashfoxy #rockclimbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #womenonlead #goatworthy #tradisrad #crackclimbing #addicted2crack #climbinginspiration #splitters #climb_girl #peanutgallery
I got to go out and climb Pinky Tower with @tradprincess and @tylerroemer last week for a @wileyx photoshoot. Here’s a rad photo from Tyler of me leading the second pitch. I broke 5 holds off this thing over the course of climbing it twice, including a jug-flake the size of my torso. Pretty exciting! #wileyx
I’ve been having a blast out here in Moab, doing a lot of crack bouldering. Here’s @mersendyclimberson working the thin hands variation of the Crackhouse. So fun!
Throwing it back to this @ladylockoff photo of me on the FA of Two Faced Lion in the remote Utah desert. I’m clipping off a jam I call the “buffalo wing”. It’s where the crack is too big for fists yet too small for knees/stacks, so you stick your whole arm deep in there and bring your hand back towards your body like you would on a chicken wing, but since the crack is much smaller than chicken-wing size, you end up jamming on your bicep and forearm. Sleeves recommended!
We made a cam evening gown, fit for a princess… A @tradprincess that is… This our #epictradrack, comprised of my rack, Mary’s rack, and a handful of extra cams from @ladylockoff – probably the most expensive dress Mary will ever wear. Also probably the heaviest… ?: @ladylockoff
Here I am, p-syched to be clipping the anchor on the FA of Two Faced Lion on the Amazon wall. 10+ OW covered in sand is hard! ?: @ladylockoff
Tired, but stoked after putting up the FA of Two Faced Lion on the Amazon wall. Thanks for the photos @ladylockoff! I’ve never had anyone there along with me for a FA. It was fun!
Drove down to Flagstaff on Friday, and yesterday I got to go out to Winslow with my buddy Steele and some of his local climbing friends. Very cool spot! Here’s a photo of @cocacolacrimper on a fun steep hand and fist crack yesterday.
@tradprincess and I discovered a new mini-bouldering area a couple of weeks ago when I was in Moab. Went back with @cheyeah, @ashleyreva, @ladylockoff and @marcusblatherskite and put up two fun invert crack boulders. A very size dependent v3, and a fun v2. We were playing the RV game in Moab, so we decided to call them the RV Boulders. This is a photo Mary took on my camera of Irene starting The (Anal) Flair, V3. The other boulder we called The (Anal) Intruder. Fun times with friends in the desert.
Yesterday Steele and I went and ran up Mars Attacks in Sedona before the rain hit. Awesome time on a fun route with an OG member of Team Matt! Today I’m driving to Yosemite valley to meet @humanboltgun for some El Cap action!
Drove from AZ to Yosemite to meet this guy, @humanboltgun. We hopped right on Southern Man on Washington Column to break some aid rust off. We didn’t get started till almost mid day, so we didn’t top out, but fun to get up off the ground on some tall granite. More aid-ventures to come! This photo is of Rob pulling the rope on Dinner ledge in front of Half Dome on the way back down in the afternoon.
I’m belaying @humanboltgun on the 8th pitch of Skull Queen right now as I type this (aid belaying is slow – putting a knot in the rope a few feet below the GriGri buys you ~5 minutes of hands free). It’s been a bit windy and cold, but a fun day so far. In this photo, Rob starts off the opening moves on the 8th pitch with the big NW face of Half Dome in the background.
Rest day in Yosemite before the weather closes in tonight. Time to start getting ready to blast off on a big El Cap mission once the weather clears! Here’s throwing back to a photo of @ladylockoff that I took of her on one of her attempts to FA Llamacorn on the Amazon Wall. Big Wild County cams are great to leave behind as pro, but not good to push, as Irene found out with this possessed #5! The big Cramalots are much better pusher pieces (though not as good to leave behind as pro). Each has their purpose – best to own at least one of each, I say…
Springy-widget-ma-bobs! Love these things! Getting ready to place lots of these things on El Cap over the next week. Oh and also stabby-poundy-spikey-doodles, and wedgey-chockey-block-whizles! Gonna be so much fun! Also thanks to @wileyx for the sweet shatterproof shades that keep rock chunks out of my eyes when I’m pounding in stabby-poundy-spikey-doodles! ?: @ladylockoff
The view from the side of El Cap! Here’s the view from the portaledge two mornings ago. Not too shabby!
@humanboltgun jugging away from the portaledge low down on South Seas. The first 4 pitches are steeeeeeeep! We didn’t send and bailed on day 3 due to me having a forearm injury and barely being able to hang on to a jug, much less lead hard aid… We’ll be back for redemption!!
Our second night on South Seas the bivy anchor was two good bolts and one very rusty old buttonhead, so we decided to add a really nice stainless steel 3/8″ bolt to make it a nice bivy anchor that easily accommodates two portaledges (like we had). @humanboltgun did the honors. Rob has installed thousands of bolts throughout Colorado and the Southwest, but putting in your first bolt on the Big Stone is always an occasion to mark.
@humanboltgun working on drilling a bolt on El Cap on the South Seas.
Sweet photo of @humanboltgun and I on South Seas from the incredible Captain Tom (aka Tom Evans) of ElCapReport.com. I’m cleaning the pitch on the left while Rob hauls our freight below with the ledge flagged. Beautiful section of that incredible golden granite!
I injured my forearm on day 1 of our attempt on South Seas into the PO wall. Not the best timing. We tried to continue to see if it would improve, but it did not, and without me at full strength it wasn’t realistic to continue. One of the best things about getting on El Cap is that as long as you don’t need to call YOSAR, then you either get to send the route, or you get to send the bail. We elected to send the bail. And send hard! Rob (@humanboltgun) was attempting to swing into the wall to clip the next anchor on a severely overhanging rappel, but he missed and ended up dangling there in space, unable to get back to the wall. He had to jug back up and try to send this rap again. Took him 3 tries to work out the beta and get the moves dialed, but he got the redpoint on the rap eventually! Sick send! *Note: we are professional sponsored rapplers. Do not try this at home without an experienced rappler to make sure you’re safe…
@humanboltgun is of Swedish descent, and therefore is afraid of the sun like a vampire. El Cap gets roasted by the sun. Rob’s solution is to engage full turtle mode. Here he gets prepped to lead an A2 pitch.
When you bail, you have all this extra water that you spent all this energy to bring up there. If there’s a nice ledge on the route, then the ethics are that you leave the water, because it may save someone later. But if there’s no ledges on the route, you don’t leave bottles of water on the ground at the base, because that’s littering, and water at the base isn’t going to save anyone. So this is what you do with extra water.
Gear Review: I’ve been using the @metoliusclimbing Metolius Freerider backpack as my main climbing backpack since February, and I have to say, I’m very impressed. Metolius gear always seems to have the very best durability, and I have really put this pack through the ringer, yet it looks practically new. The haul bag material is super burly and the stitching is the same as they use on their haul bags, so it’s not going to fail. With a lot of gear, I can tell right away what will eventually fail on it, but with this pack I really have no clue what will eventually kill it. Maybe being chewed up by a rodent? Maybe eventually the straps will compress and not be padded anymore? This thing should last a very very long time. Its surprisingly large. Comparable in size to the BD Creek 50. I can easily fit a 70m rope, a full desert trad rack, and all my personal gear, plus food and water and there’s still room to squeeze more on top if needed. I’m 6’1″ with a moderately long torso, and it fits very well. They only make one size, so take that into account if you’re very tall or short. My only complaints are 1) that the brain/lid is a bit small and fits a little funny, especially when you have the pack pretty full of gear. And 2) the compression straps could be a little bit better positioned and longer to be more useful for strapping stuff on the outside. Overall I really like this pack a lot. It’s awesome and at $129 it’s a total steal. I’ve looked at the BD Creek 50 as well, which look like a nice pack, although not quite as durable (zippers, less burly stitching), and is $60 more expensive. The Trango Crag Pack is supposed to be similar, but it is much much less durable (a friend punched a hole in it first time out using it), and it’s design isn’t as good (funny shape, zipper top lid, side pockets that will snag and rip, etc). Note: Metolius did not ask me to review their bag, and definitely did not pay me to review it (I wish!). That said I do have a lot of very good friends who work at Metolius. ?: @ladylockoff
I’m back in Oregon! Great to get back out to the Lower Gorge at Smith Rock. Awesome crew down there. Here’s a photo of @maurice_brown aka @rhinoskinsolutions attempting Crack-a-no-go. Fun route with tricky small gear. Good thing JMB has crimp strength for days to hold on and fiddle with widgets!
Another one from the Lower Gorge at Smith Rock a few days ago. @tiffanyannlarsen working the moves on her project Blood Clot. Gotta love that fine-grained basalt!
Throwing it back to climbing Risk Brothers Roof in Redrocks earlier this spring. I call this look Oxidized Copper – my take on the infamous Blue Steel. ? Thanks for the ? @ladylockoff
@aubrahhhh swung through town for a few days last week and we got out to the Lower Gorge at Smith one day. Here she is on the classic Blood Clot.
Throwing it back to April in Moab, at the Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good. This is me working Left-handed Runway. Sooo hard to turn left… ?: @ladylockoff
Throwing it back to climbing Mars Attacks in Sedona with Steele in early May. Fun moderate multipitch.
Throwing it back to climbing in Utah in April. @ladylockoff going for the FA of Llamacorn on the Amazon Wall!
Awesome photo from @nov.august of me on some fun 10c hands to fists crack at Winslow Wall in Arizona. Lots of fun!
I love roofcracks! Here’s @crackfanatic putting in a burn on Trench Warfare last spring. Thanks for snapping the photo @cheyeah.
When you take a smelfie on the wall, do you call it a wallfie? Another photo from South Seas to PO on El Cap last month. Rocking my @wileyx Boss glasses. Love em!
Justin (@rhinoskinsolutions) is psssssssyched on the thin climbing and thin gear on the first half of Crack A No Go in the Lower Gorge at Smith Rock.
Throwing it back to fun times in the desert with Smashley the offwidth crusher. Here she is sending Big Brother.
Today is #NationalSunglassesDay ! Here’s throwing it back to a #SunglassSelfie climbing in Sedona with Steele. I love my WileyX sunglasses and am stoked to be on Team WileyX! #wileyx
Throwing it back to an anonymous climber on Tonsai Beach. It was insanely hot when I was there in December, can’t even imagine what it’s like right now…
@marcusblatherskite is a super-pro spotter. Me on the other hand… @ladylockoff puts in a solid attempt at the pivot on the Anal Flair at the RV Boulders outside Moab.
Throwing it back to cooler times in Vegas… @ladylockoff photo of me on Chrysler Crack in Redrocks.
Throwing it back to Casey on Cry Of The Gerbil in the Lower Gorge at Smith Rock.
A couple weeks ago I got the honor of MCing the Bend Summer Comp with @mikerougeux. I don’t really boulder or do comps, so it was fun to get to jump into a completely different world within climbing. Also, I felt giant compared to the athletes. In this photo I’m spraying hard on the mic while Michael O’Rourke heads down to the pads after missing a dyno.
Mmmm, I love the taste of anodized aluminum. I just can’t help chomp down on a fresh biner every now and then. Eating biners is a bit of an expensive habit though. Maybe I should switch to tortilla chips… @nov.august photo of me on a fun hand and fist crack at Winslow Wall back in May.
*Said in an Aussie accent* – Rack? You call that a rack!? Now THIS is a rack! @cheyeah heads up the starting roof on Wapiti Crack, attempting the FMA (first male ascent). One of the hardest offwidths in the world, it’s still waiting a second ascent after @ashleyreva put it up. When you look at the size of that boat anchor he’s got swinging from his harness, remember he had already placed a #4 and a #9 VG that he’s clipping, so it was an even bigger rack when he stepped off the the ground.
Hand jam, fingerlock, handjam fingerlock, that’s what it’s all about! @ladylockoff photo of me on Cold September Corner in Redrocks last spring rocking my WileyX Peak sunglasses. #wileyx
Throwing it back to @ladylockoff on the FA of Llamacorn on the Amazon wall. Fun times in the desert, back when the desert wasn’t a million degrees!
I try to always be there to lend a shoulder (or two) to my friends when they need them! @tradprincess got a cam stuck in the opening roof crack of this unclimbed route at the Crack School, and this seemed like the best way to get it out… 📸: @cheyeah
While we were out on a @wileyx photoshoot a little ways outside Moab, @tradprincess and I walked past a couple nice looking boulders with wide cracks. We both made mental note of the area, and soon after I came back with a couple pads and some cleaning supplies, along with invert bouldering masters @cheyeah and @ashleyreva. We had been playing the RV game in Moab for a few days, so the RV boulders were born. This is @tradprincess going for the topout move on the Anal Intruder (v1 – ish).
Steep splitter #4s! Love it. Almost as much as @tradprincess loves this kinda crack! PC: @ladylockoff @wileyx #wileyx
Throwing it back to Casey on Cry Of The Gerbil in the Lower Gorge at Smith Rock.
Shouts to @petewhittaker01 for making the first ever onsight of Forever War (5.hard) in Vedauwoo, and I believe only the 3rd ascent ever. Impressive work! To commemorate, here’s a photo of me not sending Forever War, with my giant feet barely fitting in the crack. PC: @ladylockoff
I’m on the road again! Rolled into Whitefish after watching the eclipse in Eastern Oregon. Went out to Tally lake to SUP and cliff jump with my buddy Mike today. Fun shredventuring with Mikey!
Hey everyone! It’s #failtasticfriday! Join in! @mersendyclimberson and @tradprincess came up with a great idea to post photos on Friday of failing on climbs. All aboard the #strugglebarge Here’s some photos of me riding the pigs while bailing from pitch 23 of my solo attempt at the Muir Wall on El Cap a few years ago. This was day 9 of my attempt. I had 3.5 gallons of water pop in my haul bag and drain out the bottom on day 4, so I started rationing water super hard. I got mega-dehydrated and didn’t pee for two days. The only thing I could eat during those two days without dry heaving was fruit snacks. What finally made me decide to bail were persistent bouts of severe vertigo that would last for up to an hour and were pretty incapacitating. It took two days to send the bail successfully. When I got down I weighed myself after I rehydrated and I had lost 15lbs in the 9 days on the wall. Tom Evans awarded me the coveted Bail Of the Season in the El Cap Report. What a grand fail!
Training in the Crack Fortress with @ladylockoff and @tyler.dziedzina before the wedding celebration for @ashleyreva and @cheyeah. I have successfully claimed the title belt for the Association of Professional Crack Battlers. It was a hard fought battle, but I succeeded in outlasting Tyler to claim victory. DM me if you want to come challenge me in a title bout!
When your friends get married and go stay up at a cabin for the wedding weekend, but let you stay in their house without them there, there’s only one thing to do… Buy a pack of 1300 googly eyes and put them _everywhere_. And then take a video of them when they get home. Congrats Danny and Ashley! @ashleyreva @cheyeah Great work @ladylockoff, @inheadlights, @tyler.dziedzina, @mt.dvs, @petewhittaker01, and Kurt!
Went up to try Trench Warfare on Saturday. My huge feet gave me lots of trouble in this skinny offwidth, but it was fun to hang out and heckle! Here’s @tyler.dziedzina giving it a solid hungover attempt (he didn’t puke!).
Ok, so congrats to @adam.ondra on breaking into a new grade with his FA in Flatanger. That thing looks amazing with some awesome crack moves. But seriously, can we talk for a minute about what happened to this guy. I want to know how many eggs he’s been eating! What do you think?
Got up to Trench Warfare a couple of days ago with an awesome crew to give it a try. I don’t know if this one is ever going to be in the cards for me. Clown feet FTL! (for the loss) Thanks @ladylockoff for the photo!
Here’s another shot from Trench Warfare the other day. @inheadlights working hard to try to figure out the beta on how to get into the pod. Kinda hard to get a perspective of what angle it is from this photo… It’s dead horizontal! Look at how the cams hang, or check out my other recent photos.
Got up to Little Cottonwood yesterday with @camabam for some mellow moderate multipitch. We totally sent the day. Especially Camille. She sent like a bawse. ;-) @wileyx #wileyx
I’ve been out in the mountains for a week with no service, but I’m out and it’s #failtasticfriday! Here’s a photo of @inheadlights taking a mini-whip out of Trench Warfare from a couple weeks ago. If you’re not failing, you’re not trying hard enough things!
Sandstone season starts soooooooon! Here’s throwing it back to the spring in redrocks on Risk Brothers Roof when I finally turned left and unveiled my new look, White Tiger, to @ladylockoff and her camera. The most goodest of times!
Desert here I come! I’m stoked for more of this – racking up with giant racks and plugging jams for evar. @wileyx #wileyx
Guys! It’s #failtasticfriday! Here’s a photo of me trying to do a ground up FA out in the remote Utah desert. Sometimes you head up something unknown and uncover an amazing new route, and sometimes you find a big loose block that you can’t trundle and you down aid back to the ground and get the hell out of there… Gotta love failing! Photo: @ladylockoff Join us on Failtastic Friday – post a photo of yourself failing and hashtag it #failtasticfriday!
Throwing back to putting up FAs in fancy pants with Smashley (@ashleyreva) and @ladylockoff at The Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good. Excited to get back out here soon and put up more routes and problems! Apparently my fists and Smashley’s fists are very different sized… 📸: @ladylockoff
Whadup Moab! I made it here Saturday evening and am posting up for a month or so. Holler if you swing through and are into that roofcrack and OW life! First thing I did when I got into town was go check out the new bouldering area that @marcusblatherskite @tradprincess and @mersendyclimberson found a few months ago and have been developing. The Labyrinth is pretty cool! Thanks @marcusblatherskite for snapping this photo of me mid-way up the mellow invert Jarreth!
Here’s a photo from last week in SLC. @cheyeah heads up the LCC classic The Green A. Slabtastic!
Here’s a photo of @marcusblatherskite rocking the mono undercling jam on his roof crack project ‘Sisyphus’s Sister’ outside Moab. Gnar.
“Take!” – @tyler.dziedzina yelled as he tried not to puke while attempting Trench Warfare while severely hung over. @ladylockoff was there at the ready, hoping to capture some puking action after we had all been up late at the wedding for @ashleyreva and @cheyeah.
Here’s a photo of me on Freak Gasoline Fight Accident out at the Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good. Hoping to get out there again soon and put up more FAs! @wileyx #wileyx 📸: @ladylockoff
Guys! It’s #failtasticfriday! Here’s a sick edit I put together of @marcusblatherskite failing numerous times on his sick roof fingercrack project Sisyphus’s Sister earlier this week. So sicky sick.
Got out to the Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good yesterday with @marcusblatherskite, @jeffdokmo, and @colorider. Here’s Jeff attempting to squeeze a #5 into the crack on his ground up FA attempt of a route we’re calling “Really Really Ridiculously Good Looking”. He put in a solid effort, but did not send, so the FA is still waiting!
Throwing it back to climbing in Redrocks last spring. Good times with good friends! @wileyx #wileyx 📸: @ladylockoff
At the Crackhouse this past weekend I found a new invert rest to get a quick little depump off a good foot jam. Getting really close on a variation I call The Halfway House (climb the Crackhouse backwards and top out on the birth canal finish)! Thanks for the video @jeffdokmo.
This past weekend I took my friends @colorider @jeffdokmo and @marcusblatherskite out to my secret new area, The Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good. I had kinda tweaked my knee the day before on the FA of Baby House, so I wasn’t that psyched to climb, but I got up on a rope and got to shoot photos of Jeff attempting the FA of a route we’ve been calling “Really Really Ridiculously Good Looking”. He didn’t get it clean, but gave it a solid effort! Fun times in the desert! PC: @colorider
A week ago I put up the FA of a new roof handcrack boulder problem I found. It’s out by the Crackhouse outside Moab, and it’s like a little mini version of the Crackhouse, so I decided to call it Baby House. It’s fun! Directions to it are up on mountain project – enjoy! Thanks @dean.cool for coming out with me and snapping some photos! Thanks to @wileyx for keeping the sand out of my eyes, and @metoliusclimbing for keeping my butt off the ground. #wileyx #metoliusclimbing
Spent the weekend sportcracking down in Indian Creek. Here’s a photo of Damien heading up a cool thin hands 11.
Here’s throwing it back to bouldering with @marcusblatherskite and @stinkbaitjo at the Labyrinth a couple weeks ago. Good times!
It’s #failtasticfriday! Here’s a photo of @tradprincess and I from the Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good in the spring. Mary tried to go for the FA of a route we’re calling “The Files Are IN The Computer”, but she failed. Hard sizes and tricky moves through the opening roof crack stymied her, and the rope pulled one of her cams back into the depths of the crack. After topping out and walking off, I agreed to help her aid back up to her stuck cam to work on it. What’s the easiest form of aid? A shoulder stand. Especially when I’m twice the size of Mary, so I could barely even feel her up there. We get by with a little bit of help from our friends. #wileyx @wileyx
Helena, putting in a good attempt on Sorrow at The Wall last weekend. Close!
I love roofcracks! Can you tell? Thanks @jeffdokmo for the photo of me clearly having too much fun at the Crackhouse a couple weeks ago.
I had a great time climbing with Casey and Helena in the Creek a week ago. Here’s Casey getting mouthy on a #1 on Pigs on the Wing. Savage!
Got out to the Creek yesterday with @tradprincess and @mersendyclimberson to try Brother From Another Planet. No sends, but I’m pretty sure I figured out my beta on it for next time. Here’s Mary in the invert – which is definitely a hard size for her tiny tiny feet.
Throwing it back to climbing in Redrocks this past spring on Risk Brothers Roof with @ladylockoff and @seecaitclimb. PC: @ladylockoff
Here’s a photo of @hmast88 plugging a number 2 with great focus and grit! She definitely sent that gear placement! She also came super close to sending Pigs On The Wing and will totally get it next go.
I got out to the Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good again yesterday with @tyler.dziedzina, @tradprincess, @marcusblatherskite, and @ryanpanasy. We didn’t take photos, but we did put up a couple more FAs and worked on some harder things. Here’s a photo of @jeffdokmo attempting “Really Really Ridiculously Good Looking” the last time I was our there a couple weeks ago.
I’m not that into bouldering, unless it’s crack bouldering! Photo from @ladylockoff of me lacing up the ol invert shoes to try Freak Gasoline Fight Accident out at the Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good. @wileyx #wileyx
Throwing it back to Casey getting FIERCE on Pigs On The Wing in the Creek a couple weeks ago.
So psyched these two (@ashleyreva and @cheyeah) are driving down right now to join me and @colorider to work on putting up an epic new FA giant roof crack just outside the Creek! It’s gonna be the goodest of times in the desert! PC: @ladylockoff
Prepping the new route we’re working on, @colorider puts in one of the bolts in the top anchor.
Here’s a quick little compilation of progress working on the new route yesterday. We’ve tentatively decided to call it “Flavor Blasted”. The first clip is the all important @cheyeah gear dance to get the day started off right. Then the next few clips are Danny aiding the roof to clean it. Then (no video) @ashleyreva and I put some lead attempts in on it before Danny tried it. Then we finished off the day with @colorider putting some work in on the approach pitch. Making progress! We’re heading back out again today to put some more leads burns in on it and hopefully get the FA.
Sent! Yesterday we established “Flavor Blasted” 13-. Here’s a photo of @cheyeah working some crazy double chicken wing magic beta out at the lip of the roof on the FA go with a 9 and a 12 still hanging from his harness. This was an awesome team effort – I found it on a run, @colorider came out with me to clean the top 3rd and put in the top anchors. Then @cheyeah and @ashleyreva met us and all four of us cleaned up the lower 2/3, put in the mid-anchors at the start of the roof and then started sessioning it. @ashleyreva, @colorider and I each tried it multiple times but ultimately couldn’t pull the crux moves, and after a good 45 minute session to work the beta on Thursday, @cheyeah was able to send it Friday afternoon for the FA. Psssssstoked!
Here’s another photo of @cheyeah on the FA of Flavor Blasted entering the vertical squeeze after pulling the lip of the roof. If you look down the crack you can see @ashleyreva on belay in the alcove and all the gear.
Just rolled into Zion, so here’s throwing it back to working Gabriel a year and a half ago. Awesome photo from @ladylockoff (probably my favorite photo of me anyone has ever taken).
Throwing it back to @inheadlights projecting Trench Warfare earlier this fall. Roofcracks roofcracks roofcracks!
I stitched together a few clips of working on Flavor Blasted last week with @ashleyreva @cheyeah and @colorider. The first two are from Ashley giving a solid FA attempt, and then the second two are from Danny on the actual FA go. I was shooting stills predominantly, so these clips are just from some funny moments in between the real action. Good times getting Flavor Blasted!
I’m excited to announce that this photo I took of @ladylockoff on the FA of Llamacorn is being published in the Ladies Lock Off 2018 Calendar! The calendar looks amazing and I can’t wait to get my copy! Go to www.ladylockoff.com and navigate to the “Calendar” page to check it out/order.
Here’s another photo of @cheyeah on the FA of Flavor Blasted a couple weeks ago. Chicken wings FTW!
Just got out of the desert after spending a fantastic Friendsgiving putting up FAs and trying hard with awesome people. Here’s a photo of @colorider fully on the #strugglebarge on an attempt to do the FA of a route we put up and named “The Gobble Grovel”.
Here’s a photo from over Thanksgiving weekend of @cheyeah on the FA of Totem Pole, a cool fingercrack in a huge cave with, you guessed it, a chicken wing right below the anchors.
Just rolled into Vegas, so here’s throwing it back to a @ladylockoff photo of me climbing in Redrocks this past spring. There’s not a ton of great roof cracks here, but there are a few good ones!
Killer @ladylockoff photo of me rocking the perfect crispy hands on an unnamed route over Thanksgiving. @wileyx sunglasses and thanks @hardvarkmerino for the sweet merino shirt!
@ashleyreva is a master of the try-hard face. She’s also a master of trying hard, like she is doing here putting in an attempt on Flavor Blasted before the FA went up!
Throwing it back to climbing in the Creek with @mersendyclimberson on Halloween. She dressed up as a spandex-tastic crack climber.
As a desert climber, I’m used to carrying heavy packs, routinely humping a quad-rack and big gear up to the wall. But usually my pack doesn’t doesn’t move on its own, as @tradprincess cat Fupa (dressed up as a stegosaurus) does. Also thanks to @wileyx for keeping me looking as cool as a cat while I’m out climbing. #wileyx
Here’s @colorider in the process of making a questionable life choice while attempting the FA of a route we put up over Thanksgiving called Gobble Grovel.
Throwing it back to @hmast88 looking cool as a zucchini on a beautiful Creek splitter back in October.
Here’s a photo of @humanboltgun on a cool sport route in Redrocks a couple weeks ago.
Throwing it back to @tradprincess hopping on the #strugglebarge and wondering what to do next while attempting Brother From Another Planet. Tough roof to get through!
Happy Holidays everyone. I’m not really into Xmas, but I do recognize it as one of the top 5 eating days of the year, so here’s a photo of me eating my favorite thing – delicious delicious carabiners! Mmmmmm… Aluminum… 📸: @ladylockoff, and thanks to @wileyx for the great sunglasses and @hardvarkmerino for the sweet merino shirt.
Is everybody ready for 2018!?! It’s time to channel your inner T-Rex and charge into the new year, just like @ashleyreva getting savage on an attempt at the 2nd ascent of Totem Pole.
Throwing it back to October at the Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good – @jeffdokmo attempting very much the wrong beta to pull the roof on an FA attempt at a route we’re calling ‘Really Really Ridiculously Good Looking’. . . . . . . . . . . #offwidtharmy #offwidth #strugglebarge #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climberlife #climbingworldwide  #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #optoutside  #outdooradventurephotos #weighmyrack #klettern #escalade #escalada
Helllllloooo 2018! Rather than doing a top 9 thingy, here’s my favorite photo that I posted in 2017 of Casey on Cry Of the Gerbil. Enjoy! . . . . . . . . #metoliusclimbing #climbing #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #womenrockclimbing #womenofclimbing #womenclimbing #girlswhoclimb #climbergirl #climblikeagirl #climberchick #andshesdopetoo  #sheexplores #outdoorwomen #radgirlslife #climbonsister #c_l_i_m_b #climbingworldwide #afterthesend #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbinginspiration #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #grippedmagazine #klettern #escalade #escalada
Cool seeing so many of my friends posting photos of climbing in Redrocks right now. Hope everyone is having fun out there! I’m on the shelf with an injury right now and all these photos are making me miss sandstone and climbing. So here’s throwing it back to racking up in Redrocks last spring. I do love springy-widget-muhbobs! Thanks also to @wileyx for the sweet shades. #wileyx . 📸: @ladylockoff . . . . . . . . #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climbingworldwide  #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #adventurepic #optoutside  #outdooradventurephotos #weighmyrack #ChaseYourGOAT #klettern #escalade #escalada #metoliusclimbing
Throwing it back to @cheyeah reaaaaching for the jug hand jam at the end of the first crux on the FA of Flavor Blasted. . . . . . . . . #indiancreek #offwidth #offwidtharmy #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climbingworldwide  #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #adventurepic #outdooradventurephotos #weighmyrack  #klettern #escalade #escalada
Super fun to get out to try Desert Gold with @_caseyelliott and @ladylockoff back in December. Definitely a project for me – the crux is pretty short but packs a real punch and the rest of the climb is no gimmie either. Super cool climb and super cool photo @ladylockoff! . . . . . . . #redrockcanyon #climbing #rockclimbing #tradisrad #tradclimbing #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #grippedmagazine #outsidemagazine #climberlife #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #modernoutdoorsman #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #c_l_i_m_b #klettern #escalade #escalada
Throwing it back to @cheyeah on the FA of Totem Pole – working the chicken wing at the end of the perfect fingers splitter. Could have put the chains 4 feet lower and avoided the offwidth moves, but who are we kidding, @cheyeah and @ashleyreva put the anchors in – of course it’s going to have offwidth on it… . . . . . . . . #indiancreek #offwidtharmy #offwidth #strugglebarge #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climberlife #climbingworldwide  #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #optoutside  #outdooradventurephotos #klettern #escalade #escalada
I had insomnia and couldn’t fall asleep last night; I get insomnia about once every month or two. Last time I got as little sleep as I did last night was because of a mouse in my van over Thanksgiving. I slept about two hours before his scratching and chewing on a bag of pasta woke me up. I lay there for 45 minutes trying to ignore him and get back to sleep until I finally decided to get up and go to battle. It was a contest of wits, dexterity, and cunning that raged through the night. 4 hours later as the sun came up my foe had made a series of tactical errors, allowing me to back him into the bottom corner of a bin. In a final act of triumph, I reached down and scooped him into this jar, and raised him above my head in victory! When the rest of the gang woke up, @ladylockoff took this victory photo before @tyler.dziedzina and I drove him a couple miles down the road and released him into a nice juicy looking bush. Well fought gladiator mouse… Well fought.
Throwing it back to @tradprincess feeling a bit perplexed about how to make forward progress with a wiiiiiide roofcrack and tiny feet… . . . . . . #indiancreek #offwidth #offwidtharmy #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #womenrockclimbing #womenofclimbing #womenclimbing #girlswhoclimb #climbergirl #climblikeagirl #climberchick #andshesdopetoo  #sheexplores #outdoorwomen #radgirlslife #climbonsister #c_l_i_m_b #climbingworldwide #afterthesend #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbinginspiration #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #grippedmagazine #klettern #escalade
Throwing it back to October with @jeffdokmo placing one of my 9″ cams on an attempt at the FA of a route we’re calling Really Really Ridiculously Good Looking at the Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good. . . . . . . . #offwidtharmy #offwidth #strugglebarge #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climberlife #climbingworldwide  #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #optoutside  #outdooradventurephotos #weighmyrack #klettern #escalade #escalada
1 of 3: last year at this time I was in Thailand (I spent a little over 2 months there), so I’m throwing it back to my 3 favorite climbing photos from Thailand this week. Here’s Matt, focusing hard on Groove Tube. . . . . . . . #metoliusclimbing #tonsai #tonsaibeach #railay #railaybeach #thailand #climbing #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #limestone #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #grippedmagazine #outsidemagazine #climberlife #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #afterthesend #klettern #escalade #escalada
2 of 3: throwing it back to Thailand last winter. Here’s Randy working the moves bolt to bolt on Tidal Wave. Sports action! . . . . . . . . #metoliusclimbing #tonsai #tonsaibeach #railay #railaybeach #thailand #climbing #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #limestone #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #grippedmagazine #outsidemagazine #climberlife #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #afterthesend #klettern #escalade #escalada
3 of 3: climbing photos from last winter in Thailand. Here three tourons look on in amazement at an unknown climber shaking out in a bat hang rest above the beach. . . . . . . . . . #metoliusclimbing #tonsai #tonsaibeach #railay #railaybeach #thailand #climbing #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #limestone #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #grippedmagazine #outsidemagazine #climberlife #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #afterthesend #klettern #escalade #escalada
Awesome @ladylockoff photo of me reaching for a tight fist jam on an unnamed splitter this past fall. Really really great route. It’s almost desert season again! . Glasses from @wileyx #wileyx and shirt from @hardvarkmerino . . . . . . . #indiancreek #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climbingworldwide  #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #adventurepic #optoutside  #outdooradventurephotos #ChaseYourGOAT #klettern #escalade #escalada
Throwing it back to working on the FA of Flavor Blasted this past fall with @ashleyreva, @cheyeah and @colorider. So much fun in the desert! . . . . . . . . #indiancreek #offwidth #offwidtharmy #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #womenrockclimbing #womenofclimbing #womenclimbing #girlswhoclimb #climbergirl #climblikeagirl #climberchick #andshesdopetoo  #sheexplores #outdoorwomen #radgirlslife #climbonsister #c_l_i_m_b #climbingworldwide #afterthesend #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbinginspiration #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #grippedmagazine #klettern #escalade
Been working too much lately, not enough playing outdoors in the red sand! I guess work is a good use of an injured winter. Shouts to all my fellow injured friends – heal up fast! Also RIP to my favorite golf pants – you are missed. . 📸: @ladylockoff, and thanks @wileyx for the sandproof sunglasses #wileyx. . . . . . . #bouldering #strugglebarge #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climberlife #climbingworldwide  #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #adventurepic #optoutside #goatworthy #outdooradventurephotos #klettern #escalade #escalada
@colorider showing good fiststack form on the sprint to the chains on an attempt on Gobble Grovel. He came oh so close to nabbing the FA on this attempt, but just barely couldn’t quite pull the baggy 3s roof. . . . . . . . #offwidtharmy #offwidth #strugglebarge #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climberlife #climbingworldwide  #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #optoutside  #outdooradventurephotos #weighmyrack #klettern #escalade #escalada
Here’s a fun series of @ashleyreva gunning for the 2nd ascent of Totem Pole. 1st photo: psyched up and getting ready to go! 2nd photo: pulling down and trying hard. 3rd photo: taking a nap off the rest hand jam halfway up… Sometimes you just gotta sneak a minute of sleep in whenever you can – just like a puppy. . . . . . . . #indiancreek #moab #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #womenrockclimbing #womenofclimbing #womenclimbing #girlswhoclimb #climbergirl #climblikeagirl #climberchick #andshesdopetoo  #sheexplores #outdoorwomen #radgirlslife #climbonsister #c_l_i_m_b #climbingworldwide #afterthesend #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbinginspiration #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #grippedmagazine #klettern #escalade #escalada
Bros and broetts – check this sick banger edit I made for you. Hang on to your psyche for dear life and fill up on this sweet sweet stokefuel to help you send Monday with this killer savage footy of @_caseyelliott (and @queserawells). Get sendy, brah! . . . . . . . #fullsend #getsendy #climbing #rockclimbing #tradisrad #tradclimbing #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #grippedmagazine #climberlife #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #modernoutdoorsman #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #c_l_i_m_b #klettern #escalade #escalada
Throwing it back to @jeffdokmo at the Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good this past fall. OWFTW! . . . . . . . #offwidtharmy #offwidth #strugglebarge #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climberlife #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #optoutside #outdooradventurephotos #weighmyrack #klettern #escalade #escalada
I’m super psstoked to announce that I got the cover shot of @rockandicemag for their upcoming April issue! I feel like I have finally arrived as a climbing photographer. Congrats to @colorider for being my cover-shot subject! . . . . . . #rockandice #rawkandice #indiancreek #offwidth #offwidtharmy #strugglebarge #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #adventurepic #outdooradventurephotos #klettern #escalade #escalada
Salt Lake City – I’m here! After 2.5 years of more or less continuous traveling, I’ve decided I’m going to post up here for the time being. If you live here (or are passing through) and want to connect, hit me up! . Here’s 3 versions of a photo I took last time I was in SLC last fall. @inheadlights, @petewhittaker01, @tyler.dziedzina, @ladylockoff, @colorider, @b.yiya and I went up to Trench Warfare hungover the day after @cheyeah and @ashleyreva got married, and tried our hardest not to puke while flailing. . Trench is close to dead horizontal, and I took this photo of Kathy from nearly directly below her. The three versions here are identical except for the rotation: . – Version 1 is what gravity thinks is the correct rotation (according to the orientation sensor on my camera and the way the cams hang). . – Version 2 is what the light tells me is correct. . – Version 3 is truest to the climb and how you climb it. . which version makes the most sense to you?
It’s Friday! I hope you’re as psyched for the weekend as @rhinoskinsolutions is for a handjam after the thin crux over tricky gear on Crack-A-No-Go. 😁 . . . . . . #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #adventurepic #optoutside #grippedmagazine #outdooradventurephotos #weighmyrack #ChaseYourGOAT #klettern #escalade #escalada
“Everything is fine, nothing is f***ed, everything is fine, it’s all going great.” @ladylockoff on her FA of Llamacorn on the Amazon Wall. . . . . . . #strugglebarge #offwidth #offwidtharmy #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #womenrockclimbing #womenofclimbing #womenclimbing #girlswhoclimb #climbergirl #climblikeagirl #climberchick #andshesdopetoo  #sheexplores #outdoorwomen #radgirlslife #climbonsister #c_l_i_m_b #climbingworldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbinginspiration #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #grippedmagazine #klettern #escalade #escalada
Woo rappleing! In case you didn’t know, I’m a super-pro sponsored rappler. It’s a tough, dangerous job, but somebody has to do it… #rappellingislyfe #idratherberappelling . 📸: @tylerroemer for @wileyx . . . . . . #rappel #rappelling #canyoneering #canyons #optoutside #goatworthy #peoplewhoadventure #outdooradventurephotos #ventureout #liveoutdoors #simplyadventure #in2nature #welivetoexplore #exploremore #adventureisoutthere #adventureseekers #getoutandexplore #takemoreadventures #goneoutdoors #exploretheoutdoors #thegreatoutdoors #shredthegnar #menofoutdoors #modernoutdoorsman #exploringtheglobe #awesome_earthpix #aroundtheworldpix #unlimitedparadise
Looking outside I see trees that just barely don’t have leaves still. In a week that won’t be true anymore – spring is most definitely here! Here’s throwing it back to bare trees and working on FAs in the desert with awesome people. . PC: @ladylockoff . . . . . . #offwidtharmy #offwidth #strugglebarge #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climberlife #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #optoutside #outdooradventurephotos #weighmyrack #klettern #escalade #escalada
Sooooo… I had a great weekend out with @cheyeah and @ashleyreva working on FAs in the desert. And I got all these cool photos of Danny coming super close to the FA of this line. But I bumped my camera while jugging and managed to change an important setting so my camera took the photos in super low resolution… 😟😢😭 So any way, enjoy this super low resolution blurry photo… Dah. #strugglebarge . . . . . . #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #adventurepic #optoutside #outdooradventurephotos #weighmyrack #ChaseYourGOAT #klettern #escalade #escalada
Smashley just turned a year older, so I figured it was time to dig this photo out. @ashleyreva has been hitting that @latticetraining hard with @cheyeah, getting massively swole, smashing rocks and crushing fools all over the world! Wish her happy birthday… Or else… . Bonus – check my story for footage of Smashley smashing rocks and crushing fools… . PC: @ladylockoff . #smashleysmash #bashleybash #crashleycrash #thrashleythrash #hashtaglyhashtag . . . . . #strugglebarge #offwidth #offwidtharmy #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #womenrockclimbing #womenofclimbing #womenclimbing #girlswhoclimb #climbergirl #climblikeagirl #climberchick #andshesdopetoo  #sheexplores #outdoorwomen #radgirlslife #climbonsister #c_l_i_m_b #climbingworldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbinginspiration #iloveclimbing
Throwback to climbing with @_caseyelliott and @ladylockoff back in December in Redrocks. Fun times on epic routes. . . . . . . #climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #climbnatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #optoutside #climbingisbliss #climbingnation #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #doyouclimb #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography  #climbingworldwide #goatworthy #menofoutdoors #c_l_i_m_b #afterthesend #climbinginspiration #adventurepic #optoutside #outdooradventurephotos #weighmyrack #ChaseYourGOAT #klettern #escalade #escalada
Hey check it out, I got a photo I took of @inheadlights projecting Trench Warfare published in Bend Magazine (@bendmagazine). Very cool! If you live in Bend, check out the article – the full two-page spread to start the article is a @grahamzimmerman photo of unofficial Trout Creek cheerleader-in-chief @wfoxbluff, and there are other great photos of local Bend crushers like @grantortman and @lcarrmax! . . . . . . #offwidth #offwidtharmy #climbing #rockclimbing #littlecottonwoodcanyon #littlecottonwoodcanyon #tradclimbing #tradisrad  #metoliusclimbing #womenrockclimbing #womenofclimbing #womenclimbing #girlswhoclimb #climbergirl #climblikeagirl #climberchick #andshesdopetoo  #sheexplores #outdoorwomen #radgirlslife #girlswhoclimb #climbingworldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram #c_l_i_m_b #iloveclimbing #climbingphotography #climbinginspiration #klettern #escalade
Here’s a few photos from last fall at the Crack School For People Who Can’t Jam Good. . Photo 1: me on a fixed line taking photos of @jeffdokmo attempting the FA of a route we are calling Really Really Ridiculously Good Looking. PC: @colorider . Photo 2: my photo of Jeff working hard in the overhanging 9s at the top. . Photo 3: not quite sending, but having a ton of fun trying hard and getting worked!
@cheyeah psstoked to hit the thank god fist jam after a hard section of ringlocks while attempting the FA of a still unnamed route. Two one hang lead attempts in hot conditions means this line will have to wait until fall to get a name…
Oh the places climbing takes you…
Throwing it back to Casey climbing Cry Of the Gerbil. Still one of my favorite photos I’ve ever taken.
Killer photo of me climbing Stick It from @nov.august. Love that golden orange sandstone!
@ladylockoff putting Steele to shame… #yeahbutmineisbigger
@camabam with maximum sass on a route on a nice day in the chossatch. Fun day out in the mountains!
Super cool to see this in print! The Japanese magazine Rock and Snow featured 6 of my photos in their article on offwidth climbing in the US. @tradprincess got the full page shot to open the article. (Mary may be a small human here in the US, but she’s huge in Japan!) @cheyeah, @ashleyreva, @ladylockoff, @colorider, and @inheadlights got featured in a full page photo spread. Pssssstoked!
Hey everyone! Just because it’s Monday doesn’t mean you shouldn’t have a smile on your face, so here’s a 60 second loop of my favorite video clip of @cheyeah getting ready to aid and clean Flavor Blasted when we were working on the FA last fall. Enjoy!
Yesterday was Trench day and it was awesome. I’m sure you will see more photos and videos, but I know what everyone wants… Whips! . So here’s a compilation of all the best whips I caught on my phone. The second to last one is my favorite. . I didn’t get everyone’s name/IG, so I can’t tag all you guys, but shouts to everyone who was there – @cheyeah @ashleyreva @mersendyclimberson @tradprincess @ladylockoff @_caseyelliott @mt.dvs @dannyclimbs7 @haydenjamieson @neilson.ben @jonvickersclimbs @yellowkimber @redriveradventures and many more! . Also, you will notice it’s all dudes in this video. That’s because the women were all sending – three out of the four sends yesterday were ladies!
Hello from Indonesia! Warning: long post ahead. Today is the one year anniversary of the last time I climbed for real. I haven’t publicly said anything about it for a few reasons, but mostly it’s taken me this long to come to terms with it being a likely permanent thing. My neck/shoulder had bothered me on and off for years with numerous weird muscular and fascia problems, but I was generally able to keep climbing as long as I foam rolled and stretched and whatnot and took occasional breaks. Last fall, over the course of a month or so my neck got much much worse. I was working on putting up a very hard invert offwidth when it started to decline, but the decline continued for weeks after I moved on from Flavor Blasted. I’ve seen multiple docs, bodyworkers and PTs, including a well known PT who only works with climbers, who basically just said “I don’t know” after 6 sessions. Nobody can give me a specific diagnosis, and none of the treatment plans I’ve tried have helped much. So at this point, it appears that my climbing career is over. And that also means my climbing photography career is as well since I can’t jug a rope either.  Maybe at some point in the future my neck will heal and I’ll be able to start climbing again, but I have no idea if or when that would happen, so I’m not counting on it. I had a great 14 year run. Fantastic really. Climbing brought me so much joy, so many great friends, to so many wondrous places, and an incredible community. I started as a very part time climber in college, and ended up eventually as a dirtbag (even though some people called me “the cleanest dirtbag”), living in a van traveling the west for a few years, getting paid (a very modest amount) to climb and take climbing photos.  Climbing brought me so many incredible moments that I will never forget, favorite places I will continue to visit, lifelong friends, life lessons, and even future opportunities. The business I started after moving to Salt Lake this past summer came directly from climbing. Continued in first comment…
It’s waaaaay too hot for me to ever live here but it sure is nice to visit. . . . . #indonesia #indo #beach #bali
Free solo? How about freedive! . Been doing a bunch of scuba and freediving here in Bali, and I finally took my camera out to the reef today. Here’s a dive down to about 30-35 feet to check out some fish and coral. . I also set my personal best freediving depth of ~70 feet deep yesterday! . . . #bali #reef #coral #coralreef #indo #indonesia #freedive #freediving #skindiving #tropical
I’m not really a fan of Xmas, but the place I’ve been going freediving with had a bunch of these Xmas hats, so ehh, why not. The first photo is of me with a crab on my head. The second is the freediving crew. . . . #bali #indonesia #indo #freediving #freedive #apnea #ocean #diving
Quintessential SE Asian street food scene in Penang, Malaysia #malaysia #streetfood #malay #penang
Photo of clown fish in an anemone from @paolosphere – go follow him! . Here in Indonesia I’ve been doing a bunch of scuba diving, and as someone who has done a fair bit of photography over the years, I’ve tried to take a few underwater photos. Let’s just say that I won’t be posting any, and that I’ve gained a new respect for underwater photography! . I met @paolosphere here in Indo at the @lumbalumbadivingcentre, and his photos are amazing. I highly recommend going and giving him a follow. You won’t regret it.
The Great Salt Cafe.

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